Cerro Torre


Pakati penipeni pamtunda wa Chile ndi Argentina ndi phiri lokongola kwambiri la Patagonia - Cerro Torre, kapena Mount Sierra Torre. Iko kunakopa malingaliro a okwera mapiri m'zaka makumi asanu ndi anai, koma kwa nthawi yaitali palibe amene adafuna kugonjetsa. Mitengo inkapangidwa pamapiri oyandikana nawo a mapiri - Fitzroy , Standhard, Egger chapamwamba.

Mbiri ya ascents

Kuwonjezera pa kuti phiri la Sierra-Torre lili ndi chiwombankhanga chapamwamba kuposa kilomita imodzi, nyengo yoipa imalepheretsa kukwera. Kawirikawiri pali masiku abwino, ndipo nthawi yonseyi mphepo yamkuntho imaphulika - kuyandikana kwa nyanja kumadzimveka.

Woyamba kukwera ku Cerro Torre mu 1959 anali Msitaliyana Cesare Maestri komanso woyang'anira Tonny Egger. Ilo linalembedwa kuchokera m'mawu a Maestri mwiniyo, omwe palibe yemwe akanakhoza kutsimikizira, pamene mnzakeyo anaphedwa pamene akutsikira pansi pa chipale chofewa. Ambiri sanakhulupirire nkhani za Italy zosavomerezeka. Kenaka, mu 1970, adayeseranso kukwera, pogwiritsa ntchito zikopa kuti amuthandize njira, yomwe idathamangidwira ku thanthwe mothandizidwa ndi compressor. Pambuyo pake, njirayi inkatchedwa "Compressor". Ndipo kachiwiri woyembekezera uja adadikira chifukwa chokhumudwitsidwa - dziko lonse la mapiri lidamudzudzula za kutchula njira imeneyi yowonongeka ndi "kupha zosatheka".

Mu 1974, Pinot Negri, Casimiro Ferrari, Daniel Chappa ndi Mario Conti anagonjetsa phiri la Cerro Torre, akukwera chakum'mawa kwake. Ndipo m'chaka cha 2005, gulu la okwerapo lidakonzanso kukwera njira "Compressor" ndikuonetsetsa kuti silinapitirire kufikira mapeto, chifukwa mabotolowo anatsirizika kumalo oopsa kwambiri. Pamapeto pake, ndipo Maestri mwiniyo adavomereza kuti kugonjetsa phirili kunali loto la moyo wake, lomwe silinkadziwika.

Mu 2012, achinyamata Achimerika a Lama ndi Ortner adakwera pamwamba kwambiri moona mtima, ndipo pobwerera iwo anamasula phiri kuchokera ku mabotolo ambiri opotoka, kubwerera njira yopita ku mawonekedwe ake oyambirira.

Zizindikiro za alendo

Kwa alendo wamba omwe alibe luso la kukwera mapiri, kuyendera nsonga ya Cerro Torre wiritsani mpaka kuona mapiri akutali, zithunzi zokongola ndi ulendo wopita ku phazi la phirilo. Osati pachabe, chiwerengero ichi chikuonedwa ngati chimodzi mwa zovuta kwambiri kugonjetsa mdziko.

Kodi mungapeze bwanji?

Njira yosavuta yopita ku phiri ikuchokera ku mzinda wa El Calafate . Kuyambira kumeneko amabasi amabwerera kumudzi wa El Chalten , atagona pansi pa mapiri.