Mavalidwe a mphesa - ndani ali woyenera komanso chovala?

M'zaka zaposachedwapa, okonza mapulani amagwiritsira ntchito kwambiri njira ngati mpesa. Lingaliro ili mu dziko la mafashoni limatanthauza zinthu zomwe kalembedwe ka theka ndi pakati pa zaka zapitazi zikuwonekera bwino. Mavalidwe a mphesa ali ndi mbiriyakale yonse, amawonetsa maonekedwe a nthawi inayake, kuyambira zaka za m'ma 20 ndi 60 mpaka zaka za m'ma 1800.

Kodi mungasiyanitse bwanji zovala zaulimi?

Chinthu chojambula kawirikawiri chiri ndi mbiriyakale, chimalankhula zokha komanso nyengo yomwe idalengedwa. Pogula zinthu muyenera kumvetsera mfundo zina zomwe zimasiyana pakati pa vintage madiresi:

• cholembera cha mankhwala chidzakhala chophwanyika, chikasu pang'ono;
• mndandanda wa kulembedwa pamatchulidwewo umati zambiri, monga mafashoni osiyanasiyana amalembedwa ndi nyengo zosiyana;
• malemba ena omwe ali ndi chidziwitso chokhudza kusamalidwa, kutsuka ndi kuyeretsa zinayambika mu zaka za m'ma 100 zapitazo, choncho, zidzakhala zochokera m'ma 70 - 80;
• Ngati palibe malemba a fakitala pa zovala, ndiye, mwinamwake, ichi ndi chinthu chopangidwa ndi manja;
• nthawi ina yofotokozera ndizofunika. Nsalu zokongola zimapezeka m'ma 60s, zovala za nthawi yoyamba zimapangidwa ndi nsalu zachilengedwe;
• potsiriza, mawonekedwe a mankhwala. Nthawi iliyonse imafanana ndi kalembedwe kawo, malinga ndi mafashoni a zaka khumi.

Mavalidwe okongola a mpesa

Kukongola kwa malonda mu kalembedwe ka maolivi kumakhala mwawokhaokha ndi zosiyana muzinthu zina. Zovala zamaluwa zamaluwa zamitundu yosiyana zimasiyana mosiyana. Kusiyanasiyana kumeneku kumawonekera onse mu nsalu ndi kalembedwe, ndi mwatsatanetsatane, zokongoletsa, kusindikiza pa nsalu . Ndondomeko yofananamo imamveketsa mfundo izi:

• Kwa theka lazaka makumi awiri za makumi awiri, nsalu zachilengedwe ndizofanana: silika, chiffon zachilengedwe, thonje ndi nsalu;
• Mitambo ya kutalika kwapakati kapena yopanda collar, manja a mitundu yosiyana;
• zokongoletsera makamaka ulusi, ulusi ndi lurex kapena mabomba ang'onoang'ono;
• Ndalama zimaperekedwa kwa zinthu monga mabatani, fasteners, nsalu zazing'ono. Izi ndizopadera, zambiri zimapangidwa ndi manja;
• zovala zaulimi zam'tsogolo zimasiyanitsa mitundu yambiri ya nsalu ndi nsalu, nthawi ya 80s ndi mawonekedwe atsopano a zitsanzo, zakhala zojambula ndi zowala.

Zovala zamaluwa za 30s

Mafashoni 30 amadziwika ndi kulekerera. Izi zikuchitika chifukwa chakuti mayiko ambiri pa nthawiyi adakumana ndi mavuto aakulu azachuma, choncho adayesanso kusunga zovala. Zovala zamaluwa za m'ma 30 zimasiyana mosiyana ndi izi:

• Zimakhala zazitali kapena zazikulu kutalika, nsalu zosavuta ndi mabala osavuta;
• mosiyana ndi zitsanzo zambiri za m'ma 1920, zaka 30 zowoneka bwino m'chiuno, silhouette anayamba kuoneka ngati hourglass;
• Mavalidwe a mphesa, ngati simukumbukira zonse zosavuta, amadziwika ndi kukongola kwakukulu;
• Ndondomeko yeniyeni yokhala ndi siketi yoyaka, ngati kuti ikuyenda m'chiuno;
• kolala yotsitsimula ndi manja a mdulidwe watsopano ndi zizindikiro - nyali ndi mapiko ofunika.

Zovala zamaluwa za m'ma 50

Nthawi iyi ndi imodzi mwa zokondedwa ndi opanga ambiri. Izi ndi zomveka, chifukwa mawonekedwe a nthawi ino ndi osiyana kwambiri, akugogomezera ukazi. Zovala zamaluwa za m'ma 50 zimasonyeza:

• Chotsukidwa, chovala choyenera bwino chovala chovala bwino kapena chokwanira;
• nthawi ino stilyog ndi opanduka. Zonsezi zinkawonetsedwa ndi nsalu zomwe zinkagulitsidwa. Mitundu yowala imakhala yaikulu: yofiira, buluu, yoyera, yachikasu, pinki, yobiriwira;
• Mapangidwe a nsalu ndi ofanana ndi nthawiyi: nthanga zazikulu ndi zazing'ono, khola, maluwa;
• zinthu zinali zokongoletsedwa ndi mabatani aakulu, lace kapena mphukira;
• chovala cha maolivi cha m'ma 50 ndi zovuta zambiri za podsubnikami - izi ndizopeza zenizeni;
• Timazindikiranso manja ndi bodice. Miyendo yamanja ndi zikopa zomveka bwino, ndi bodice yokhala ndi zingwe pa mabatani akulu ndi gawo la magawo atatu ndi zofiira kapena zosiyana-siyana - izi ndizo zonse zomwe zatsimikizira nthawiyo.

Kavalidwe ka ma 80

Pofika zaka za m'ma 80s, nthawi yowonjezereka ya zovala zomwe zilipo kale pamayendedwe a mpesa zimatha. Zaka khumi zikudziwika ndi mfundo izi:

• silhouette okhwima ndi ojambula;
• Mzere wa mapewa wooneka bwino, ngakhale wochulukitsa umapanga mawonekedwe a katatu omwe amachotsedwa;
• m'zaka za m'ma 80 panaoneka chovala chokongoletsera chokongoletsera, chophweka ndi choyaka;
• Pogogomezera pamapewa, gwiritsani ntchito mapepala oyendetsa m'mphepete mwa mapepala, ndipo mzerewu ukugogomezedwa ndi lamba waukulu wokhala ndi mtolo waukulu. Pachifukwa ichi, zazikuluzikuluzikuluzikuluzikuluzikuluzikuluzikuluzikuluzikuluzikulu ndikulumikiza lambawo, ndizowonjezera fano;
• Zidakali zobiriwira zamaluwa zamkati zamkati, zokhazokha, kuphatikizapo zapamwambazi, zimaphatikizidwa ndi zikwama zomwe zimatayika m'mapanga aketi kapena zikopa pachifuwa;
• Mitundu ya nsaluyi ndi yowala kwambiri, mumagetsi amatsindika mothandizidwa ndi mizere, zilembo zazikulu zamakono, zogwiritsidwa ntchito ku nsalu.

Mavalidwe mwa maonekedwe a mphesa

Kuphatikiza pa zinthu zoyambirira ndi zamtengo wapatali, zotchuka ndi zolembedwera kwa mpesa. Zimapangidwa ndi ojambula poganizira zochitika zonse izi kapena nthawi, nsalu, kutseka, mabatani ndi zomaliza zimasankhidwa bwino. Zamakono ndizofala pakati pa odziwa malingaliro awa. Malingana ndi nthawi yomwe fashionistista akufuna kubwereranso mu fano lake, chitsanzo ndi Chalk zimasankhidwa. Valani kavalidwe ka maolivi, malingana ndi nthawi imene akufuna kuti ikhalepo, akuyimira zinthu izi:

• Amachotsedwa ku nsalu ya thonje, chiffon, zachilengedwe ndi zobisika zopangidwa ndi silika, velvet ndi nsalu zokonza;
• Zitsanzo za zaka zoyambirira za makumi awiri zoyambirira zapitazi zimakhala ndi chikhalidwe chodziwika bwino, ndipo mcherewu umatanthawuza mwatsatanetsatane: mzere, mapepala, mapepala, ziphuphu ndi nsalu;
• Zogula zimatha ndipo zimayenera kuwonjezeredwa ndi zipangizo zopangidwa ndi miyala yamtengo wapatali, ngale, zitsulo zopangira zitsulo zosatseguka;
• mu zinthu za mtsogolo, ojambula mafashoni amamangiriza mzimu wa nthawiyo monga mawonekedwe a sewn, monga matumba, valves, mapepala amatsenga.

Mavalidwe a mphesa pansi

Chithunzi cha chiyambi cha zaka za makumi awiri, 1900-1920 ndi madiresi apamwamba a mphesa. Amatha kuwonekera pa phwando kapena phwando la chakudya chamadzulo. Zitsanzo zimenezi zimadziwika ndi:

• kuyendayenda, sitima yaing'ono ndi nsalu zabwino: satin, silika, velvet;
• Zojambula zambiri za nthawi ya zaka za m'ma 20 zimadulidwa kumbuyo kwawo, zokongoletsedwa ndi mikanda yamitundu yambiri ndi yonyezimira;
• madiresi ena apamwamba a maolivi ali ndi nsalu yocheperapo pansi komanso mphotho mu chiuno.

Chovala chokwanira chamaluwa

Mpaka zaka makumi asanu ndi limodzi ndi makumi asanu ndi limodzi ndizovala zobiriwira zamaluwa pamaluwa. Nthawi ino ndi mafilimu apadera a Hollywood, sinema ya France ndi Italy. M'nthaŵi ino, pa kutalika kwa kutchuka kunapanga nyumba zotere, monga Prada, Dior. Kwa zokondwerero za mwambo, zitsanzo zoterozo zinali zotchuka:

• ndi mkanjo wa belu mu khola lalikulu, pang'ono ndipakati pazitali;
• pakuti zitsanzo zoterezi zimadziwika bwino kwambiri, zomangidwa bwino komanso zomangirira zokhala ndi mapewa opanda kanthu;
• Mzere wavalo unalengedwa mothandizidwa ndi zojambula zamitundu yambiri ndi zojambula zojambula.

Zovala zamaluwa zamaluwa

Mtedza ndi kavalidwe ka maolivi zikuwonekera kwa wina ndi mzake. Kuchokera kumayambiriro kwa zaka za makumi awiri ndi makumi awiri mpaka zaka za m'ma 1960, mphasa inali chinthu chofunika kwambiri chokongoletsera. Nthawi zonse mtengo unali nsalu yokongoletsedwera yokongoletsedwa, ulusi woonda wa lace. Zovala zamadzulo zamadzulo zinasinthidwa malinga ndi nthawi ina:

• Mapeto olemera ndi maonekedwe a ma 1920s. Koma kale mu nsalu za 40 zinagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati mawonekedwe oonda kuti azikongoletsera zikho, makola ndi mphutsi;
• kwa zaka 50, lace la lace linadza. Mitambo yamadzulo ya zikondwerero idasindikizidwa kuchokera ku nsalu yotchinga yotsegula yomwe ili ndi zigawo zingapo zapodsubnikov. Kuphatikiza apo panali magolovesi apamwamba a nsapato ndi matumba ang'onoang'ono a clutch.

Zovala Zokongoletsera Zokongoletsera

Mitundu yodziwika bwino inali yotchuka pakati pa theka la makumi asanu ndi limodzi ndi la makumi asanu ndi limodzi la zaka zapitazo. Iyi ndiyo nthawi ya kugonana, mahule ndi ufulu wamakhalidwe. Zitsanzo zofananamo m'nthaŵi yam'mbuyo-yozizira zidzakhalanso pachimake cha kutchuka. Zovala zamaluwa zamtundu wakuda zodziwika zinali zotchuka monga zovala zachisanu ndi chilimwe:

1. M'nyengo ya chilimwe, zitsanzo zabwino za thonje zinali zovala. Chowonekera chawo chachikulu chinali mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya mitundu ndi silhouette yopapatiza.
2. Zaka makumi ambiri zowonjezera zowonjezera zakhala zapamwamba, zowonongeka zowonjezera zowonongeka zinkapangidwa kuchokera ku zitsulo za akristine.
3. Anali ndi manja akuluakulu okhala ndi chikho chochepa.

Mpesa wamaluwa madiresi

Mkwatibwi aliyense yemwe amasankha kavalidwe ka mpesa kwa chifaniziro cha ukwati wake sali kulakwitsa, chifukwa nthawi iliyonse amadziwika ndi zodabwitsa ndi zachilendo zachikazi zitsanzo za ukwati ndi zophimba :

1. Kumayambiriro kwa zaka makumi awiri ndi makumi awiri kumaimira madiresi ambiri omwe amachititsa kuti mpesa ukhale wowongoka.
2. Pakati pa zaka za m'ma 2000, silhouettes anasintha, kupereka njira zabwino kwambiri ndi miketi yambiri yanyalu ndi pamwamba.
3. Pafupi ndi ma 80s, madiresi okongoletsera okongola omwe ali ndi manja akuluakulu komanso okongola, nsalu yobiriwira komanso mapulaneti ambirimbiri.